Radiant Easter vs Christmas Cactus Care Guide

1. Introduction

“Holiday cacti” confuse a lot of people. The plant sold as a “Christmas cactus” might actually be a Thanksgiving cactus, and a plant flowering around Easter might be a true Easter cactus or just a Christmas cactus that missed its schedule. On top of that, they are tropical, epiphytic cacti, so classic “desert cactus” care often does more harm than good.

This guide focuses on Easter cactus vs Christmas cactus: how to identify which you have, how their needs differ, and how to give each plant the right light, water, soil, and temperature for reliable blooms. You will also find seasonal calendars, troubleshooting for “Easter cactus not blooming” and “Christmas cactus not blooming,” and a quick-print care cheat sheet at the end.

2. Quick Comparison: Easter Cactus vs Christmas Cactus

2.1 Holiday Cactus Family at a Glance

All the “holiday cacti” are epiphytic cacti (tree‑dwelling or rock‑dwelling), native to humid forests of Brazil, not hot deserts. They share many needs—bright indirect light, airy, well‑draining soil, and consistent moisture without waterlogging—but their bloom timing and rest periods differ.

• Easter cactus:
  • Botanical name: Rhipsalidopsis (Hatiora) gaertneri
  • Typical main bloom: late winter to spring (March–May in the Northern Hemisphere)
• Christmas cactus:
  • Botanical group: Schlumbergera (true Christmas cactus = S. bridgesii; many are hybrids with S. truncata)
  • Typical main bloom: late autumn to winter (roughly November–January)

Both are short‑day plants: their blooming cycle is triggered by long nights plus cool temperatures.

2.2 Side‑by‑Side Comparison Table

3. How to Tell Easter Cactus from Christmas Cactus

3.1 Stem Segments (Pads): The Easiest Identifier

Look closely at the “leaf” segments (they are actually flattened stems):

• Easter cactus
  • Segments are flat and fairly rounded at the edges, sometimes gently scalloped.
  • Margins look soft, with no prominent “claws.”
• Christmas cactus
  • True Christmas cactus segments are flattened with crenate, saw‑toothed edges—not as sharply clawed as Thanksgiving cactus, but clearly indented.
  • Many plants sold as “Christmas” are actually Thanksgiving cactus (S. truncata), with very pointed, claw‑like projections on each segment.

If your plant has distinctly pointed, almost hook‑shaped teeth, it is most likely a Thanksgiving cactus, not a true Christmas cactus. That still counts as a “holiday cactus” and the care is very similar.

3.2 Flower Shape, Color, and Direction

• Easter cactus flowers
  • Often look like stars or daisies: many narrow petals radiating out in a symmetrical circle.
  • Flowers often face upward or outward, held above the segments.
  • Colors: vivid reds, pinks, oranges, purples, and white.
• Christmas cactus flowers
  • Tubular, layered blooms, often with petals that curve backward and down.
  • Flowers usually hang or arch downward from the ends of the segments.
  • Widely available in pinks, reds, whites, purples, and bicolors.

When in doubt, wait for blooms—flower shape plus timing is extremely reliable.

3.3 Blooming Season and Timing

• Easter cactus: main display is late winter to spring (March–May) in the Northern Hemisphere.
• Christmas cactus: main display is late autumn to mid‑winter (roughly November–January).

If your “Christmas cactus” reliably blooms around Easter each year, it is very likely an Easter cactus or a spring‑blooming hybrid, not a misbehaving Christmas cactus.

4. Native Habitat: Why These “Cacti” Don’t Like Desert Care

4.1 Rainforest Epiphytes, Not Desert Dwellers

In the wild, holiday cacti grow in the Atlantic rainforests of Brazil. They perch on mossy tree branches or nestle in rock crevices filled with decaying leaves, where they experience:

• Bright but filtered light under a forest canopy
• High humidity and frequent, gentle rainfall
• Cool to mild temperatures, not intense heat
• Constantly moist, but well‑aerated organic debris around their roots

This is very different from classic desert cacti. Treating them like desert plants—full sun, hot, and bone‑dry soil—leads to shriveled segments, sunburn, and root stress.

4.2 How Habitat Differences Shape Care

Because they are epiphytic cacti (epi = on, phyte = plant), they prefer:

• Bright indirect light or gentle morning sun
• Well‑draining potting mix that holds some moisture but never stays soggy
• Regular watering with a partial dry‑down, not long droughts
• Moderate to high humidity and good air movement

Keeping this rainforest origin in mind makes indoor plant care choices simple and intuitive.

5. Shared Care Basics (For Both Easter and Christmas Cactus)

5.1 Light Requirements

• Ideal light is bright, indirect light—an east‑ or north‑facing window, or slightly back from a bright south or west window.
• They can handle a bit of gentle morning sun, especially Easter cactus, but avoid hot midday sun which can redden or scorch segments.
• Too little light leads to weak, stretched growth and fewer blooms; too much direct sun causes red or yellow segments and stress.

5.2 Temperature & Humidity

• Comfortable daytime temperatures: about 18–24°C (65–75°F) for most of the year.
• Cooler night temperatures (around 10–15°C / 50–60°F) help trigger buds during the bloom‑induction phase.
• They appreciate moderate humidity (around 40–60%). Use:
  • A pebble tray with water below the pot
  • Grouping plants together
  • A room humidifier in very dry homes

5.3 Soil & Potting

“Holiday cactus soil” should be:

• Well‑draining yet moisture‑retentive
• Airy, with chunky particles that prevent compaction
• Slightly acidic to neutral

A good DIY mix for both Easter and Christmas cactus:

• 2 parts high‑quality peat‑ or coir‑based potting mix
• 1 part perlite or pumice
• 1 part fine orchid bark or similar chunky material

Use pots with drainage holes. These plants prefer to be slightly rootbound, so do not overpot.

5.4 Fertilizing Basics

• During active growth (roughly late winter/spring through early autumn), feed every 4–6 weeks with a balanced, dilute fertilizer (e.g., all‑purpose or flowering houseplant feed at half strength).
• Some growers use a high‑potassium fertilizer (like tomato feed) every 3rd–4th watering in the growing season to support bud formation.​​
• Stop or reduce feeding during rest/dormancy phases and when plants are setting buds; resume lightly once they are actively growing again.

6. Easter Cactus Care: Detailed Guide

6.1 Light & Placement

• Best location: bright, indirect light with some gentle morning sun if possible.
• Keep out of harsh midday sun, which can cause segments to turn reddish and stressed.​
• Indoors, an east‑facing window or bright spot a bit back from a south window is excellent.

6.2 Easter Cactus Watering Schedule

Easter cactus tends to be less drought‑tolerant than Christmas cactus. It dislikes completely dry soil for long periods.

• Growing season (roughly spring–early autumn):
  • Water when the top 2–3 cm (1 inch) of soil feels dry—often every 7–10 days, depending on temperature and pot size.
  • Water thoroughly until excess runs from the drainage holes, then empty the saucer.
• Winter rest (pre‑bloom) period:
  • In late autumn and early winter, reduce watering to every 2–3 weeks or whenever the mix is nearly dry, but do not let it bone‑dry for long.
  • Slight wrinkling of older segments is acceptable; severe shriveling means it is too dry.

Signs you are off balance:

• Overwatering: limp, soft segments and possibly black, mushy roots (root rot).
• Underwatering: segments become shriveled and stiff; buds dry and drop.

6.3 Easter Cactus Temperature & Dormancy for Blooming

To get a strong spring display and solve “Easter cactus not blooming”:

• Rest period: about 8–10 weeks in late autumn–winter with:
  • Cooler nights around 10–15°C (50–59°F)
  • Short days/long nights (natural winter photoperiod is usually enough)
  • Reduced watering, just enough to keep the mix from going bone‑dry
• Once buds appear in late winter:
  • Gradually return to standard room temps (18–22°C)
  • Increase watering slightly to keep the mix evenly moist but not soggy​

Avoid big temperature swings or moving the plant once buds form—both can cause bud drop.

6.4 Fertilizing & After‑Bloom Care

• Start feeding shortly after flowering finishes, as new growth begins:
  • Use a balanced fertilizer at half strength every 4–6 weeks during spring and summer.
• After bloom:
  • Give a 2–3 week “mini rest”: slightly less water, no fertilizer
  • Then resume normal Easter cactus care with regular watering and light feeding

6.5 Repotting & Pruning

• When to repot: every 2–4 years, ideally in late spring or early summer after flowering.
• Signs it is time: roots circling densely, drying out very fast, or soil breaking down into fine, soggy particles.
• Choose a pot 2–3 cm (about 1 inch) wider than the old one; keep it on the snug side.
• Pruning:
  • After flowering, you can twist or cut off the last one or two segments of stems to encourage branching.
  • Pruned segments double as cuttings for propagation.

6.6 Common Easter Cactus Problems

1. Bud drop

• Causes: moving plant while budding, drafts, sudden temperature shifts, letting soil go very dry, or waterlogging.
• Fix: keep the plant in one stable spot during budding, water consistently, avoid extremes and cold/hot blasts of air.

2. Shriveling segments

• Usually a watering problem: either too dry for too long, or roots rotting from constant wetness.
• Check roots: firm and white/tan = healthy; brown/black and mushy = rot. Adjust watering and soil as needed.

3. Easter cactus not blooming

• Possible reasons:
  • No cool, short‑day rest period in winter
  • Too much fertilizer, especially late in the year
  • Light pollution at night (strong artificial light near the plant)
  • Very old, exhausted soil or potbound roots
• Fix:
  • Provide 8–10 weeks of cooler nights (10–15°C) and shorter days with reduced watering before expected bloom.
  • Refresh soil and feed moderately during the growing season.

7. Christmas Cactus Care: Detailed Guide

7.1 Light & Location

• Place in bright, indirect light—east or north windows, or filtered south/west light.
• Protect from hot, direct midday sun, especially through glass.
• Outdoors in mild seasons, hang or place in bright shade, never in full, burning sun.

7.2 Christmas Cactus Watering Schedule

Christmas cactus is slightly more tolerant of short dry periods than Easter cactus, but still dislikes sitting in soggy soil.

• Growing season (roughly spring–early autumn):
  • Water when the top 2–3 cm (1 inch) of soil is dry—often every 7–10 days.​​
• Autumn bloom‑induction period:
  • Reduce watering slightly: let the top layer dry a bit more before watering; often every 2–3 weeks depending on conditions.​
• While flowering (late autumn–winter):
  • Keep the mix lightly moist; do not swing from soaking wet to bone‑dry, which encourages bud drop.

Always adjust to your pot, mix, and environment: water schedules from guides are starting points, not rigid rules.

7.3 Christmas Cactus Temperature & Bloom Trigger

To solve “Christmas cactus not blooming” and understand how to get Christmas cactus to bloom, focus on temperature plus darkness:

• About 6 weeks of:
  • Night temperatures around 10–15°C (50–60°F)
  • 12–14 hours of uninterrupted darkness each night
  • Slightly reduced watering (not drought, just modestly less)

This regime usually starts in late September or October for blooms around November–December, depending on your climate and whether you have a true Christmas vs Thanksgiving type.

After buds are visible:

• Move back to more typical room temperatures (18–23°C)
• Provide bright indirect light
• Keep watering consistent and avoid drafts to prevent bud drop

7.4 Fertilizing Routine

• From spring through early autumn, feed every 4–6 weeks with a balanced fertilizer at half strength.
• Some growers use a high‑potassium fertilizer (tomato feed) during the growing season to encourage heavy budding.​​
• Stop feeding about a month before starting the bloom‑induction period in autumn; resume lightly after flowering when new growth appears.

7.5 Repotting, Pruning & Shaping

• Repot every 2–4 years in late winter or early spring, once flowering has finished.
• Use a well‑draining, chunky mix similar to Easter cactus (potting mix + perlite + bark).
• Keep plants slightly potbound; large pots with excess wet soil raise the risk of root rot.
• For shaping:
  • After flowering, gently twist or cut off segments at the joints to shorten overly long stems and encourage branching.
  • These pruned pieces root easily as cuttings.

7.6 Common Christmas Cactus Problems

1. Bud drop

• Causes: sudden temperature swings, drafts, low humidity, inconsistent watering, or light interruptions at night during bud formation.
• Fix: keep conditions steady during budding; avoid moving the plant and keep it away from doors, vents, heaters.

2. Root rot

• Symptoms: limp, drooping segments despite moist soil; black, mushy roots when unpotted.
• Causes: poor drainage, heavy soil, overwatering.
• Fix: trim rotted roots, repot in fresh, airy mix, and adopt a moderate watering routine.

3. Christmas cactus not blooming

• Common reasons:
  • No long‑night period (too much evening light from lamps or streetlights)
  • Nights too warm (above about 18–20°C) during induction
  • Very heavy feeding or no rest period
• Fix:
  • Provide 6–8 weeks of 12–14 hours darkness and cool nights (10–15°C) starting 2 months before desired bloom.

8. Blooming Mechanics: How to Get Reliable Flowers Every Year

8.1 Photoperiod (Day Length) & Darkness

These are short‑day plants, meaning they form flower buds when days are short and nights are long and uninterrupted. The term photoperiod refers to the ratio of light to dark in 24 hours.

• Most holiday cacti need about 12–14 hours of darkness each night for several weeks to initiate buds.
• Even a brief burst of bright light during the dark period can confuse the plant and delay or reduce budding.

8.2 Temperature Requirements Compared

Temperature interacts with photoperiod—this is sometimes called thermo‑photoperiodic behavior.

• Christmas cactus:
  • Best bud formation around 10–15°C (50–59°F) at night for 6–8 weeks, with normal room temps by day.
• Easter cactus:
  • Prefers cooler but slightly milder conditions, often around 10–15°C nights and 16–20°C days in winter to set buds.

Too‑warm nights (above about 18–20°C) can prevent blooming even if day length is correct.

8.3 Timing Your Bloom to the Holiday

To roughly time blooms:

• For Christmas cactus
  • Count back 6–8 weeks from when you want flowers.
  • Start long nights + cool nights at that point. For late December color, begin in early–mid October.
• For Easter cactus
  • Provide cool, short days and reduced water in late autumn–mid winter.
  • Many cultivars then bloom naturally in March–May; you are mostly supporting their natural rhythm rather than forcing an exact date.

8.4 Troubleshooting Non‑Blooming Plants

If your plant is healthy but refuses to bloom:

• Confirm identification (Easter vs Christmas vs Thanksgiving). Their internal “clocks” differ by several weeks.
• Ensure:
  • Enough darkness (12–14 hours nightly)
  • Cool enough nights
  • A rest period with reduced watering and feeding beforehand
• Check for stress: repotting too close to bloom time, severe pruning, pests, or root rot can all delay or stop budding.

9. Seasonal Care Calendar (Side‑by‑Side)

9.1 Month‑by‑Month for Christmas Cactus

(Northern Hemisphere timing; in the Southern Hemisphere, shift by ~6 months.)

January–February

• Plant is usually still blooming or just finishing.
• Keep in bright, indirect light, moderate temps (18–23°C), and evenly moist soil. Deadhead spent flowers.

March–April

• Blooming ends; give a short rest: slightly less water for 2–3 weeks.
• Then resume regular watering and start light feeding monthly.

May–August

• Active growth phase.
• Water when the top layer is dry; feed every 4–6 weeks.
• Can go outdoors in bright shade if temps stay above about 10°C (50°F).

September–October

• Begin bloom induction for “how to get Christmas cactus to bloom”:
  • Provide 12–14 hours darkness each night.
  • Give night temps around 10–15°C.
  • Reduce watering slightly and stop feeding.

November–December

• Buds develop and open.
• Return to normal room temps, keep light bright but indirect, and water more regularly (but not soggy).
• Avoid moving the plant or exposing it to drafts to prevent bud drop.

9.2 Month‑by‑Month for Easter Cactus

January–February

• Cool, short‑day rest continues.
• Keep in bright, indirect light with cool nights (around 10–15°C).
• Water lightly every 2–3 weeks, just preventing complete dryness.

March–April

• Main bloom season for most cultivars.
• Move to a slightly warmer room (16–22°C), keep moist but not soggy.
• Avoid moving the plant; protect buds from drafts.

May

• Flowering finishes.
• Provide a 2–3 week rest with a bit less water and no fertilizer, then resume normal care.

June–August

• Active growth phase.
• Water when the top inch of soil is dry; feed lightly every 4–6 weeks.
• May be placed outdoors in shaded, frost‑free conditions (above ~10°C).

September–December

• Pre‑bloom preparation: late autumn into winter.
• Provide cooler nights (10–15°C), bright but indirect light, and reduced watering.
• Avoid heavy feeding and repotting during this period. Buds typically initiate in late winter.

9.3 “At a Glance” Seasonal Checklist

Christmas cactus (summary)

• Spring–summer: grow, water regularly, feed monthly.
• Early autumn: cool nights, long dark periods, reduced watering → bud set.
• Late autumn–winter: enjoy blooms; keep conditions steady.

Easter cactus (summary)

• Late autumn–winter: cool, relatively dry rest; short days → bud set.
• Spring: bloom season; keep evenly moist and slightly warmer.
• Summer: active growth; regular watering and light feeding.

10. Propagation, Repotting & Long‑Term Care

10.1 Propagating by Stem Cuttings (for both)

Propagation is simple and a good way to rejuvenate older plants.

Step‑by‑step:

1. Timing: Best right after flowering, in late winter or spring.
2. Take cuttings:
   • Gently twist off or cut 2–4 segment pieces from healthy stems.
3. Callus:
   • Let cut ends dry and callus for 1–3 days in a shaded spot to reduce rot risk.
4. Planting:
   • Insert the callused end about 1–2 cm deep into a barely moist, well‑draining mix.
5. Conditions:
   • Keep in bright, indirect light with moderate humidity.
   • Keep the mix only lightly moist—never wet.
6. Rooting:
   • Typically takes 3–6 weeks; new segments indicate success.

10.2 When and How to Repot Safely

• Repot only when needed, typically every 2–4 years.
• Best time: after flowering, in late winter–spring.
• Steps:
  • Slide the plant out gently, loosen outer roots.
  • Trim dead/rotten roots.
  • Move to a pot only slightly larger, with fresh, airy mix as described earlier.

Avoid repotting just before or during bud formation—this often causes buds to abort.

10.3 Keeping Plants for Decades

With good care, holiday cacti can live for many decades, even over a century.

Key long‑term habits:

• Refresh soil periodically before it breaks down into fine, soggy particles.
• Avoid chronic overwatering or long droughts.
• Give them proper rest and light each year to keep the blooming cycle strong.
• Take cuttings occasionally to have “backup” plants and share with friends.

11. Pests, Diseases & Physiological Issues

11.1 Common Pests

Typical indoor pests that may appear:

• Mealybugs: white, cottony clusters in joints and on roots.
• Scale insects: small, brown bumps on stems, often sticky.
• Spider mites: fine webbing and tiny speckling on segments, often in dry air.

Actions:

• Isolate the plant.
• Wipe pests with a cotton swab dipped in alcohol.
• Use insecticidal soap or a horticultural oil spray, following label directions.
• Increase humidity and improve air circulation to discourage spider mites.

11.2 Disease & Root Problems (Root/Stem Rot)

Root rot is a major risk if soil is heavy or stays wet. Symptoms:

• Drooping, wilted segments despite moist soil
• Brown or black, mushy roots when unpotted

Corrective steps:

1. Unpot and trim all rotten roots.
2. Let the rootball air‑dry briefly, then repot in fresh, well‑draining mix.
3. Water lightly at first; then resume moderate watering once new growth appears.

Stem rot (blackened or mushy sections) should be cut away into healthy tissue. Healthy segments can be rooted as cuttings.

11.3 Environmental Stress Symptoms

• Yellowing segments:
  • Possible causes: overwatering, poor drainage, nutrient deficiency, or too much direct sun.
• Reddening segments:
  • Often a response to excess light or cold stress.
• Shriveling:
  • Either significant underwatering or root damage from rot.
• Segment drop:
  • Common after severe drought, waterlogging, sudden moves, or temperature shocks.

In all cases, check roots, adjust light and watering, and stabilize the environment.

12. Common Mistakes & Myths

12.1 Treating Them Like Desert Cacti

Myth: “They are cacti, so they need full sun and very little water.”

Reality: They are tropical, epiphytic cacti from cool, moist forests. Full sun and long droughts cause stress, shriveling, and poor flowering.

Correction: Bright indirect light, moderate watering, and some humidity are ideal.

12.2 Using the Same Routine for Both Easter and Christmas Cacti

Myth: “All holiday cacti need exactly the same care year‑round.”

Reality: Their rest periods and blooming windows differ, and Easter cactus is more sensitive to both drought and overwatering than Christmas cactus.

Correction: Give Easter cactus a cool, relatively dry winter rest and careful moisture in spring; give Christmas cactus a cool, dark autumn period for buds and slightly drier autumn soils.

12.3 Overwatering vs Underwatering

Myth: “If a holiday cactus looks limp, it always needs more water.”

Reality: Limp segments can signal overwatering and root rot or severe underwatering. Only checking the soil and roots tells you which.

Correction:

• If soil is wet and heavy, suspect rot and improve drainage.
• If soil is bone‑dry and segments are wrinkled, water thoroughly and adjust your schedule.

13. FAQs

Q: Why is my Christmas cactus blooming in spring?

• It may actually be an Easter cactus or a spring‑blooming hybrid; many are mislabeled.
• Alternatively, a Christmas cactus can rebloom out of season if it experiences an unplanned period of cool nights and shorter days in late winter or early spring. This is not harmful in moderation but can be stressful if repeated.

Q: Can I grow Easter and Christmas cactus in the same pot?

• Yes, but it is not ideal. Their exact rest and watering needs differ, so one may always be “slightly wronged.”​
• If you combine them, aim for a compromise: bright indirect light, moderate watering, and careful attention to cool night induction for each in its season.

Q: How long do the blooms last, and how can I extend them?

• Individual flowers usually last several days, and the overall display can last 3–6 weeks.
• To extend bloom:
  • Keep them in cooler rooms (around 15–20°C)
  • Avoid hot sun on flowers
  • Keep soil lightly moist, not soggy or bone‑dry

Q: Is bud drop normal and what causes it?

• A few buds dropping is normal, but heavy bud drop indicates stress:
  • Sudden temperature changes or drafts
  • Moving the plant while in bud
  • Irregular watering or low humidity
  • Light interruptions during the dark period

Q: Can I keep them outdoors in summer?

• Yes, in many climates. Put them outside only when nights stay above about 10°C and:
  • Keep them in bright shade or dappled light, never in baking sun.
  • Bring them back indoors before autumn nights become too cold or before starting the bloom‑induction period.

14. Conclusion & Quick Care Cheat Sheet

14.1 Key Takeaways

• Both Easter and Christmas cacti are tropical, epiphytic cacti from Brazilian rainforests, not deserts.
• Identification hinges on stem edges and bloom timing:
  • Easter cactus: rounded segments, star‑shaped spring flowers.
  • Christmas cactus: crenate segments, tubular winter flowers.
• Both need bright indirect light, airy well‑draining soil, moderate watering, and regular but not heavy feeding.
• Reliable blooming depends on short days, long nights, and cool temperatures plus a clear rest period.
• Easter cactus is a bit fussier about moisture; Christmas cactus is generally more forgiving but still resents waterlogged soil.

14.2 Printable/Scannable Cheat Sheet

Identify Holiday Cactus

• Easter cactus:
  • Rounded or softly scalloped segments
  • Starburst, upward‑facing blooms
  • Flowers March–May
• Christmas cactus:
  • Segments with rounded, saw‑toothed edges
  • Tubular, dangling blooms
  • Flowers November–January

Shared Basics (Holiday Cactus Care)

• Light: Bright indirect, no harsh midday sun
• Soil: Well‑draining potting mix with perlite + bark
• Water: Thorough when top 2–3 cm are dry; never leave in standing water
• Humidity: Aim for 40–60%
• Fertilizer: Dilute balanced feed every 4–6 weeks in active growth

Easter Cactus Care (Quick)

• Light: Bright indirect; tolerates some gentle morning sun
• Watering: Keep slightly moist in growth and bloom; reduce in winter rest but do not allow long, complete dryness
• Temperature: 18–24°C in growth; 10–15°C nights in winter for buds
• Rest: Cool, shorter days and lighter watering in late autumn–winter
• Main problems: Shriveling and bud drop if over‑ or underwatered or if conditions swing too quickly

Christmas Cactus Care (Quick)

• Light: Bright indirect, protected from hot sun
• Watering: Let top layer dry slightly between waterings; reduce in autumn rest, moderate during bloom
• Temperature: 18–24°C most of year; 10–15°C nights for 6–8 weeks in autumn for buds
• Rest: Autumn—cool nights, long dark periods, slightly drier soil
• Main problems: Bud drop from drafts, light at night, or erratic watering; root rot from heavy, wet soil

If you match the plant you have with its natural rhythm—Easter cactus for spring, Christmas cactus for winter—and follow these clear light, water, soil, and temperature guidelines, you can expect these “holiday” cacti to reward you with reliable, abundant blooms year after year.